I am always committed to using the highest quality products available to our industry.  Throughout my career I have studied the chemistry of ingredients used in by manufacturers of salon products and chemicals.  Because I am well known for this knowledge I was recently invited to Atlanta to attend the national launch of a new hair smoothing system.  The skeptic in me normally wouldn’t have attended because they all make claims without giving you any of the chemistry to back up their “latest greatest product”.  But in this launch I was told I’d be able to question the chemist that created the product as extensively as I needed.

I got some one-on-one time with the chemist to make sure this new “amino fusion smoothing system” was the real deal and didn’t have any formaldehyde.  He told me the active ingredient is oxoacetamide carbocysteine which is an ingredient that has been used before in relaxing hair but this time he put it to use at a pH below 2, which is very acidic instead of putting the hair in a high alkaline state which is usually done with the chemicals used in salons.  Yes, it does break down some of the cysteine bonds (which account for your hair’s integrity) but not to any great extent so it keeps the hair healthy and shiny.  All relaxers break down these bonds, even the ones that make other claims.  The bonds have to break down in order to relax the hair.

The manufacturer claims this new “amino fusion smoothing system” will last a similar amount of time as the keratin formaldehyde relaxers, but it depends on your lifestyle – how often you shampoo, do you swim frequently, does your water contain a lot of minerals, etc.  Another advantage it has over other types of relaxers besides not containing any “aldehydes” is you don’t have to wait 3 days to shampoo your hair.  Waiting 3 days to shampoo your hair has been a major deterrent for many people getting this service done.  Most clients have been clearing their schedule around the 3 day waiting period because you can’t shampoo, or expose your hair to humidity, and you can’t ponytail your hair for the 3 days after the keratin relaxer.  This new smoothing system is ready to be washed the day after the relaxer if you wish.  It’s totally relaxed when you leave the salon and you didn’t risk breathing in a carcinogenic ingredient while having the service even if at a relatively safe level.

My concern is that these formaldehyde relaxers will be totally banned at some point in the future.  They’ve already been banned in a couple of states and Canada. Several representatives of Congress have asked OSHA and the FDA to investigate keratin relaxers.  If you have frizzy dull hair and live in a humid climate you know how miserable the summers can be and your hair never looks great.  Clients aren’t ready to give up their formaldehyde relaxer easily.  The relaxers do make the hair feel incredibly smooth and look so shiny.  These relaxers do change your life as far as making it easier to smooth out hair!  The keratin relaxer that we use supposedly has around 2% formaldehyde, which is very low compared to other brands, and because we have great ventilation we use it if requested.  But if you prefer a guaranteed non-formaldehyde relaxer with a very similar result and one that you don’t have to wait three days before shampooing, then you have a great new option.  I highly encourage people to get on board with the new “amino fusion smoothing system” technology.

Chemicals are used in all aspects of everyone’s lives, from toothpaste and deodorant, to household cleaners, and pesticides in our food production.  The hair industry uses many different chemicals because hair is a very difficult fiber to penetrate, and in order to achieve the beautiful effects we get with hair, in most cases the chemicals are essential.  We are a chemical industry!  The question becomes, “Does your hairdresser use the least abrasive chemical to achieve the healthiest hair possible and get the desired results?”  And better yet, “Does your hairdresser know exactly what’s in the professional products he/she uses?”  The manufacturers are not required to list ingredients in the “professional chemicals” that your hairdresser uses.  Your hairdresser is exposed to the same “trigger marketing” that says what’s NOT in the hair color, keratin hair relaxer or perm.  The manufacturer hopes we won’t investigate any deeper.

I’ve spent 30 plus years in the salon industry researching the products that we use on our clients.  In our salon I provide our staff with the truth about the chemicals that we use on clients and how to use them so that our clients get the best of what is out there.  The truth is that the products that are marketed as being “free” of a certain chemical actually contain ingredients that are just as strong, or are “sister” ingredients that do exactly the same thing in making those products work.

Let me be more specific to help paint an even clearer picture for my colleagues that do chemical services and for the public – we’re all being duped by the lack of truth in advertising.  These companies aren’t lying to us by saying their products are “free” of a certain ingredient.  They’re just NOT telling us everything we need to know to make educated decisions about what we’re using.  Especially for the hairdresser who probably is trying their best, based on information that’s just missing!  The reason I want to shed more light on this subject is because the internet has so much written that the public is reading information with a mixture of truth and half-truths.  In the meantime the hairdressers need to become better educated about what they are using.  And the client needs to know that their salon REALLY knows how to use the chemicals and exactly what chemicals are the least abrasive to the hair. The chemicals we use all have a purpose and when used under the right circumstances can produce beautiful results.

Sure ammonia is a caustic ingredient but SOME companies have got the percentage down to 1.8%-3%, which is a huge reduction compared to 20 years ago.  And the companies that claim to be “ammonia free” have other ingredients like MEA (mono-ethanolamine or other ethanolamines), which were originally used in semi and demi-permanent color because they don’t cover grey hair well enough; so they increase the percentage of this ingredient to 8%-9%.  Then there’s the “peroxide free” line they use but if the hairdresser has the right knowledge on coloring hair then they realize that many of the products we use today will cover most grey hair with low volume peroxide which is much less abrasive to the hair.

The latest culprit is “formaldehyde free” keratin relaxers.  Keratin relaxers are controversial at best.  They make the hair feel amazing, but how much formaldehyde is “safe”.  For the most part it’s a ventilation issue because breathing it is not healthy, especially for hairdressers doing lots of these services.  But to claim they are “formaldehyde free” is usually just deceptive because they have some other type of “aldehyde”.  There are keratin relaxers that claim to be “formaldehyde free” that really don’t have formaldehyde but that’s because they aren’t even in that category of relaxers – they’re using a form of perm solution combined with some “keratin” so they can call it a keratin relaxer.  They even go further claiming to also be “thio free” relaxer (thio being an ingredient in perm solution), which the average hairdresser thinks must be wonderful for hair.  The truth is they have some other chemical ingredient like ammonium bisulfate that has been used for years to relax curl in hair.  Again, none of these are wrong to use unless you use them on the wrong type of hair.

These are all examples of how complex the chemistry is in the hair industry.  Your hairdresser needs to know what is best for your hair condition given what’s been done to it previously and what type of hair you have.  My answer is to always use the least abrasive product that gets the best result, keeping your hair in the best possible condition.  But the only way to do that is to know exactly what’s in the products they use on you, and the manufacturers are not even required to print ingredients on “products for professional use only.”  How’s that for CRAZY!  And if they tell the hairdresser anything it’s always what’s NOT in the products they use on you, not what’s in it!  The hairdressers in our industry need to come together and demand our lawmakers make the manufacturers be more forthright.

Incredible technical skills and creativity used to be enough but in today’s world of manufacturers competing for billions you have to know your chemistry.

Steve Izzo has been a hairdresser for 35 years.  He worked in New York helping develop a product line for the salon industry and has trained with Sassoon and Toni & Guy in the United States and also trained in Europe.

Millions of men and women suffer frustration and embarrassment over the traumatic problem of excessive hair loss. It’s estimated that over 50% of men, by the age of 35, and 40% of women by the age of 40 will have a degree of baldness. Studies have proven that individuals with hair loss look older than they are. Hair loss is a normal part of the aging process. But with the technology and science available today we all have several options available to us to fight hair loss.

Women can do very little to hide their problem. They are presumed to have health issues or, even worse, labeled as not caring about her appearance. She is embarrassed when she tries to go to the salon to get help. Too often, the stylist will tell her that there is nothing that he or she can do to help her.

For the men who can’t shave their head or wear a hat to work, they too face the same dilemma as the women. They are often overlooked for promotion for a younger looking counterpart. They’re reluctant to even try hair replacement because of all the bad results they’ve seen in the media and even on their friends or family members. They don’t explore other resources to see if there really is something revolutionary that can give them back the look they lost, from no fault of their own.

Contributing Factors to Hair Loss

Understanding Hair Growth

In humans, each follicle appears to have its own cycle independent of each other. As long as the papilla stays active, produces hair cells, the follicle remains unobstructed, and a healthy condition exists, then re-growth will continue. Follicles produce hair during a growth phase called the Anagen phase. This phase lasts from 2 to 6 years. Each hair, at its own pre-programmed stage goes into a resting phase called Catagen. This phase lasts about three months. Then the follicle sheds its hair and replaces it with a new one during the Telogen phase.

Because of the Anagen, Catagen, and Telogen cycle, daily hair loss is a natural biological occurrence. Normal hair loss is between 50 and 150 hairs per day. Loss of more than 150 hairs per day is considered excessive. A normal head of hair consists of approximately 90,000 to 120,000 hairs.

Understanding Hair Loss

The major causes of hair loss have to do with circulation, hormonal influences, genetics, and nutrition. There are many different types of hair loss, but most start with the name Alopecia. This group of explanations has 5 different descriptions.

Androgenetic Alopecia is the most common type of hair loss that we see. It is the medical term for male or female pattern hair loss. It is broken down into two parts.

Andorgenetic – which consists of androgen, meaning, any of the various hormones that control the appearance and development of masculine characteristics, such as testosterone. Testosterone will take over a follicle and diminish it by inhibiting the blood flow to the follicle.

Genetic – is the inheritance of genes from either their mothers or fathers side of the family.

Both of these in combination represent a time clock, which will signal the hair follicle to produce special enzymes. When testosterone and these special enzymes are present in the follicle, it converts to Dihydrotestosterone, otherwise known as DHT. The DHT makes the follicles go into a resting phase faster, which causes the hair produced by those follicles to become thinner and thinner with each successive growth cycle, and thereby start the process of male or female pattern baldness.

Other forms of Alopecia come about when the normal growth cycle of the follicle is interrupted by the immune system. This occurs when the follicle becomes obstructed, or the blood flow to the papilla is diminished. Many internal and external conditions have a direct relationship with hair loss.

Alopecia Areata – Traveling spots of hair loss in sizes ranging from the size of a pea to an entire area on the head can be affected. It is usually temporary and usually is seen first during childhood, disappearing with the onset of puberty. In some cases, it will return after puberty is complete. Usually, the reappearance of Alopecia Areota will result in further and permanent hair loss. Many studies have concluded that it is caused by an autoimmune system disorder.

Alopecia Totalis – Alopecia Totalis usually begins with Alopecia Areata and then progresses. This is where all hair on the scalp is gone. When this occurs, it is usually a permanent situation.

Alopecia Universalis – This hair loss encompasses the entire body. This too usually begins with Alopecia Areata, progressing to Alopecia Universalis. This condition is usually permanent.

Traction Alopecia – This condition is caused by excessive physical stress or tension on the hair from poorly applied Hair Extensions, clips for Hair Replacement systems and tight cornrow braiding. Severe pulling from putting hair in tight ponytails can also cause hair loss around the hairline.

Tricitillamania – This is an obsessive-compulsive disorder where the individual gets a pleasing sensation by pulling the hair out at the follicle. Some individuals pull while they are in their sleep but most know when they are pulling and do it for the sensation they get when they pull the hair out. This can be treated with medication and therapy but is not always successful. Most clients that have this disorder and choose hair replacement find another place to pull. Some are successful with using hair replacement because they don’t get the sensation if they pull that hair out.

Medical Conditions – Many medical conditions can cause severe hair loss. High fever, extended use of antibiotics, surgery, pregnancy, thyroid, and of course, chemotherapy all fall into this category. Usually, this is what we call “self restoring hair loss”, meaning that when the situation is over and the body has returned to normal, hair will go back to its original state. The length of time varies from one client to another. For cases like this, Low Level Laser Light Hair Therapy can be very successful.

Chemotherapy and Radiation Therapy

Cancer is a very large group of diseases characterized by uncontrolled, rapid growth and spread of abnormal cells. The bio-chemical process, through which cancerous cells reproduce and grow in the body, is parallel to the way many other healthy body cells actively reproduce and grow, and are particularly similar to the rate which hair cells grow.

Anti-cancer drugs such as chemotherapy are aimed at stopping the abnormal growth of the cancer cells. Administration of anti-cancer drugs act on both normal cells and cancerous cells. All cells are more receptive to the action of drugs during active cell reproduction. Cells, which reproduce most rapidly, are the most likely to be destroyed. Unfortunately, some cells – such as hair follicles, also divide rapidly and can be affected by chemotherapy as well. To date, science has not yet discerned how to make today’s treatments distinguish exactly between rapidly reproducing normal cells and abnormal cells. The rate of fall out can differ between patients and type of chemotherapy treatment. Fall out of hair usually begins with rapid shedding, then, by the second treatment, they may go in the shower with hair and come out with little or no hair. The scalp usually becomes very tender before the hair actually falls out. Clients with long hair may have more painful shedding and should be encouraged to cut their hair shorter before the shedding begins.

Re-growing hair takes on average, six months to one year to return to normal. Returning hair may be different from the hair that was lost. Due to absence or alteration of pigment, the hair may grow back white, gray or a different color. Usually, pigment cells return to normal and the hair should return to its normal color with the normal growth cycle is complete. Hair may also be curly if hair was straight or straight if hair was curly. This has to do with the shape of the follicle. The flatter the follicle, the curlier the hair. The rounder the follicle, the straighter the hair will be. If there was an assault on the follicle severe enough, the shape of the follicle may change causing this curl pattern change.

Radiation Therapy is the use of high-energy rays to stop cancer cells from growing and multiplying. Radiation destroys the ability of all cells within its reach – cancerous and normal, to grow and reproduce. However, cancer cells are more sensitive to radiation than normal cells. If radiation is given just as a cancer cell is about to reproduce or divide, the radiation will prevent the cell from dividing and it will die. If the radiation is applied around the head or neck, hair loss will occur, showing up as alopecia. In most cases, it will not grow back.

Hair Loss Options

Each individual experiencing hair loss has options to consider. There are many factors to consider before making a final decision on the right course of action. I’ve outlined the options below but there are many lifestyle factors to consider and your hair and scalp needs to be thoroughly examined before we can make the most effective recommendation.

Commercial topical treatments such as (Minoxidil) from DS Labs, natural products such as Revivogen that re-grow hair if the conditions are right for growing. These products work best on medically related hair loss rather than genetic caused hair loss. Propecia, taken in pill form, used in conjunction with a Minoxidil product has proven to be somewhat effective in re-growing hair.

There are numerous products on the market, which you can apply as a topical treatment using massaging and laser techniques. Minoxidil is the most advertised and popular topical product which has been approved to re-grow hair.

We carry DS Labs products with a 5% Minoxidil, which encourages hair growth by increasing blood flow to the scalp. This, in turn, nourishes hair follicles and thus revitalizes hair growth. It is not a quick fix and results will not be seen for at least 3 to 4 months. Ultimate results will be seen in 12 to 16 months. If you would rather take a more natural approach that can also give you a very good result we also carry a product called Revivogen. This is a great option if your medical condition doesn’t allow you to use Minoxidil.

Propecia is a pill that requires a doctor’s prescription. This pill helps to reduce DHT and provide DHT inhibitors to increase blood flow to the follicle, open up the follicle and detoxify the follicle. Used with Minoxidil, about 60% of users will see an increase in hair density.

Low Level Laser Light Hair Therapy could be a class in itself. Recently approved by the FDA to re-grow hair, Low Level Laser Light Hair Therapy has taken hold in the market. In studies, 57% of individuals will re-grow hair, 85% will experience a halt in hair loss while 100% of users see a thickening of the hair shaft and have healthier hair. LLLHT causes cell reproduction and protein synthesis causing a dormant follicle to begin to produce hair again. Success is seen in those individuals who are in their first five years of hair loss.

Living cells utilize light and your hair is no different. Laser works by penetrating into soft tissue and increasing the action of adenosine triphosphate, a molecule that is a major carrier of energy from one reaction site to another in all living cells.

Not surprisingly, many scientists and physicians have been using low level laser over the years to speed wound healing and produce new tissue.

Microscopic studies have shown laser increases circulation and oxygenation of the blood to the scalp and the hair bulb. Laser also removes calcification and blockages around the hair bulb; as well as increases cell replacement or regenerative activity.

Laser helps hair to improve in fullness, shine, body and elasticity; therefore problems such as over-oily or dry scalp, as well as dandruff and itchiness can also be reduced.

To appreciate how it works, you need to understand the basics of how hair grows and replaces itself in the natural cycle of growth and re-growth. Every hair on one’s head usually grows for several years and then falls out. The root then rests for a few weeks before starting to re-grow a new hair. This cycle continues throughout our lives. Unfortunately, as we age, some people replace fewer hairs that are shed resulting in thinner hair and gradually baldness occurs. You don’t go bald or thin out because your hair falls out – it’s meant to do so. You go bald or thin out if it doesn’t grow back! Laser used on a regular basis strengthens and regenerates the hair roots. This slows or arrests, and in some cases, reverses the degenerative cycle as previously described.

Once the hair root is dead, nothing can be done to restore them, so the sooner treatment is started, the better your results are. Therapeutic pure red light stimulates a life giving blood supply to the hair bulb and scalp, increasing the number of red corpuscles that deliver vital oxygen and nutrients. The result is a restorative and reparative chain reaction that clears debris from the hair shafts, swells the cortex and closes the cuticle leading to a healthier scalp and hair that looks and feels softer, thicker and shinier, and is more easily managed.

Noticeable improvement is achieved in 4 to 6 months. However, if you have heavy hair fall-out, you may notice a reduced rate of fall-out after only a few treatments.

Laser treatments are usually used in conjunction with topical treatments to further augment the effectiveness of both the laser and the products. Results vary from individual to individual. Clinical studies have shown that 57% of those suffering from hair loss within the first five years and who begin a treatment program using laser will actually re-grow hair. These same studies show that 85% stop losing hair and 100% see a marked improvement in the quality and condition of their hair.

Laser Hair Therapy is a non-surgical therapeutic laser. It is the most powerful laser that is safe for cosmetic purposes and fully complies with FDA standards for safety. Low Level Laser Light Hair Therapy is ‘Cold-beam’ laser technology. The power level is so low that it is virtually a mere vibration, harmless but effective.

Have a surgical procedure from a reputable doctor who specializes in “MUHG” Multi-Unit Hair Grafting. Techniques in surgery have come a long way in the past few years. Surgeons have continued to perfect their skills. The days of the cornrow look are gone with the use of these new techniques. Come into Izzo Cutter for a private consultation. We can determine if you are a good candidate. Fill out our consultation form and let us take photos of your hair loss. We submit the photos to PAI Medical Group and let their consultant contact you. This is FREE consultation with absolutely no obligation. This will also give you an opportunity to see my hair transplant from PAI. Trust me, my extensive background in the hair loss industry gave me access to the best transplant group in the business. This will give you an opportunity to see how amazing transplant surgery can look!

Non-surgical hair replacement is the choice for more and more individuals because of the advances in technology and the natural look that’s now attainable. The options available with Virtual Reality have made the choice easier for many. The definition of hair replacement is any additional hair added to ones existing hair or scalp to give the appearance of fuller, thicker hair. Compared to all other options, hair replacement and hair systems represent an affordable method with immediate results for solving hair loss. If a person is not happy with the results, it can be reversed completely without risk or scars.

Today’s hair replacement systems have improved over the years. They no longer look like a toupee or common wigs. The results are truly amazing in regards to creating a natural front hairline and a totally natural appearance. With today’s advanced technology, the systems are very light density and the base product is much thinner, like another layer of skin.

Attachment methods allow the wearer total freedom. They can participate in normal activities, such as working out and swimming with no detection. There is also no need to remove anything before going to bed.

Coverage can be just where the client needs the hair. Whether it’s just on the crown of the head or full head, the same natural look can be achieved.

I travel the country teaching in hair loss studios. I’ve studied all the options and seen results from all the options available. I will give you honest answers to your hair loss issues no matter what the situation may be – I’ve been there myself!

There is some controversy over the ingredients used in the keratin relaxer treatment. Unfortunately, most salons and/or hairdressers don’t have the chemistry knowledge to understand exactly what they’re putting on your hair. The manufacturers are always creating new products that have some type of “magic” in them that they claim is a miracle for you and your hair, skin, or nails. Your hairdresser gets their information from a sales rep trying to make a sale. I’m here to tell you that most of it is just gimmicks or an old technology re-hashed in a new package! Sometimes they come up with something that’s pretty different like the keratin relaxers, BUT because the manufacturers are all competing and trying to make their product seem different, it turns into an overload of different chemicals that most hairdressers have very little understanding. Combine that with the misinformation on the internet and the deceptive advertising from the manufacturers, the consumer is left confused and frustrated. For example have you ever noticed the boxes of hair color at the drugstore that say they don’t contain ammonia or peroxide. Do you ever ask yourself why they don’t brag about what is actually in their product rather than what isn’t in it! It’s because whatever chemical is in it isn’t any better than the ammonia or the peroxide – and can be much more harmful if not used correctly.

The truth about relaxers is that there are a lot of choices to be made as to which type is best for your type of hair. There are basically four categories of relaxers – chemical straighteners with sodium hydroxide or other derivative chemicals that do the same thing, which are best on very curly hair that want to be permanently straight. Then there are thio-based straighteners that are referred to as “hair texturizers” which are less caustic but don’t last as long and don’t leave the hair as straight. Followed by the thio-based Japanese straighteners that everyone assumed were wonderful for the hair, but do contain harsh chemicals. They are wonderful in the right situation if used properly. And finally the keratin or Brazilian relaxers. The controversy has been whether they contain formaldehyde or not.

I’ve researched for hours to find the truth and here it is as I know it – they all contain formaldehyde or a sister chemical. The controversy surrounding formaldehyde is about the amount that is used in the keratin relaxers. It’s the formaldehyde (or similar chemical when they claim it doesn’t contain formaldehyde) that makes your hair smooth, not the keratin! All the brands of keratin relaxers that claim to last for a few months have either formaldehyde or a sister chemical that produces formaldehyde gasses when heat is applied during the process at your salon. No matter what anyone says, THEY ALL HAVE TO HAVE IT in order for the product to work. That’s the nature of why the chemistry works. Now to make it more complex they all contain or produce in some manner, different amounts of formaldehyde gas. The more formaldehyde in the product, the straighter your hair is. So you will get different results depending on which salon you go to and chances are the haidresser doesn’t know what’s REALLY in their product because manufacturers are not required to reveal ingredients on “products for professional use only”. It may only say “formaldehyde-free”, which by now you realize all that means is that it contains something else just as caustic, that does the same thing. There is a brand new temporary keratin relaxer that is much quicker to apply and only lasts 3-4 weeks, and some of the manufacturers don’t use formaldehyde or derivatives. This is a great option if you wish to avoid the chemicals, it doesn’t take curl out but it does reduce most of your frizz.

The issue is not how bad formaldehyde is for us to breathe. We all know it’s not good for us. Every chemical service performed in a salon has ingredients that aren’t great to breathe. We all love the results of the keratin relaxer, so how do we use the chemicals safely and do we understand which chemicals to use when. As well as, do we ventilate properly and do everything possible to insure the client gets the best service possible under the safest conditions possible! We at Izzo Cutter, have the chemistry background to make the best choices so you don’t have to worry about how your hair will turn out. I have studied the chemistry of salon products for years and was involved in helping develop a product line when I worked in New York. I also served on the Board of Cosmetology for 3 years. Salons or independent stylists are not known for having a great research department. Come see us – we use the best products and we make the best choices, because we know our chemistry! It’s a must in today’s world of complex chemistry with manufacturers competing for millions of dollars worth of the salon industry.

Each week I will post new information about a different subject and open up the questions about anything anyone wants to asks. If anyone has a private question they can ask me through the contact on www.izzocutter.com which goes to my email.

Next week I’m going to talk about the Keratin Relaxers that have everyone asking questions about how they work and what’s in them. So if you have any questions please feel free and I can assure you of a straight answer that’s in your best interest.

Steve Izzo
Izzo Cutter & Co.
3435 N. 12th Ave., Pensacola
850-912-8826